Black hair is political, a cultural identifier, and has proven to be a lucrative sector in the beauty market. According to a 2019 Nielsen Report, Black consumers account for “almost 90 percent” of the ethnic hair and beauty market and this “trend shows no signs of slowing down. Black hair care, particularly salon ownership, has historically provided Black women with the ability to secure financial security and escape systemic and gendered racism in traditional careers to provide for their families. 

When discussing beauty salons, beauticians and their spinning chairs are synonymous with sanctuaries. Black women trust their stylists to understand the cultural subtext involved in our kinks, curls and coils, but most importantly, the complexities of our shared experiences. 

Before the corporate beauty industry realized we existed, Black hairdressers were the chemists who developed products and procedures best suited for our hair. The right stylist will not only become a trusted consigliere with whom you can share some of the most intimate details of your life; they should be the copilot joining you along your healthy hair journey.

So why, suddenly, does it seem modern-day hairstylists have forgotten they are carrying a legacy of deep-seated traditions? It’s unclear when or how the shift started, but social media is illuminating a contention between generations. 

A digital divide between hairstylists

“Technology. It has driven a wedge between the two; new versus the old,” said Natasha Burrell, licensed cosmetologist & owner of Stamped Salon in Detroit.

“The newer generations have yet to understand that some things come with communing and experience. The newer generations are learning from social media. Many have failed to understand the culture and history behind it. They are mimicking versus trailblazing.” 

And as evident from countless videos, many Black women customers agree with this sentiment, sharing posts detailing disheartening tales about their experiences with the new rules of engagement. 

Some hairstylists demand that consumers arrive with their hair washed and blown out for braiding and others ban the use of outside hair extensions altogether:

Hefty deposits and late fees leave dents in consumers’ pockets, like upcharging for parting hair before braiding it. 

Each of these videos…